Everyone goes to Dubrovnik. Everyone forgets Zagreb. And Zagreb, to its credit, doesn't seem to mind. The Croatian capital has the energy of a city that's happy to be discovered but isn't going to beg for attention. It reminded me of that one friend who's quietly the most interesting person in the room.
Five days in July, when the streets hum with outdoor cafés and the evening light turns the Upper Town golden. Zagreb showed me a Central Europe I hadn't expected — warm, unpretentious, and surprisingly affordable.
Upper Town & Lower Town
Zagreb is a city of two halves, connected by a funicular that holds about twelve people and costs less than a coffee. The Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is medieval, quiet, and home to St. Mark's Church with its iconic tiled roof. The Lower Town is Habsburg grandeur — wide boulevards, green parks, and the kind of architecture that makes you want to sit and stare.
Café Culture
Zagrebians take their coffee more seriously than anyone I've met in Europe, and I live in Scandinavia. The ritual of sitting in a café for hours — not working, not meeting anyone, just sitting — is called "špica" and it's practically a civic duty. On a Saturday morning, the entire city seems to be drinking espresso in the sun. As someone from a culture built on chai and conversation, this felt deeply right.
Dolac Market
The Dolac farmers' market sits above the main square like a red-umbrella-covered crown. Fresh produce, cheese, cured meats, and flowers — all from the Croatian countryside. I bought lavender honey and a chunk of Paški sir cheese, and ate them on a bench overlooking the city. Simple. Perfect.
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